Style Arc Linda PantsPosted: January 25, 2014
Bengaline?? What on earth is it? The Style Arc patterns often recommend this mysterious fabric for their trouser patterns. The tiny sample they send attached to each pattern affords a tantalising clue.
I found the most helpful blog post about Bengaline here. And Anne gave me her permission to link to it, thank you!
I duly purchased 3 metres of quality Chocolate Brown Bengaline from Nortex Mill, which arrived very swiftly, and all was revealed … Bengaline is the stuff school trousers are made of! It’s the tightly woven, hard wearing poly/viscose/lycra fabric that makes a ‘zippy’ sound when your legs brush together! It’s very stretchy, but only in one direction, which means, for trousers, you need to lay your pattern pieces across the fabric instead of along – so that you get the stretchiness across your butt.
I’ve had the Style Arc Linda pattern in my stash for ages, just waiting for the right fabric to come along, and the necessary motivation to attempt making some trousers, albeit of the ‘pull on’ variety – fly fronts will come this year, I’m sure, but for now I’m sticking with easy.
And wow, are these easy! I made my first pair up in about 3 hours, and that’s including cutting out. There are only 3 pattern pieces; front, back and waistband. It couldn’t be any easier. I sewed them up on my overlocker, being so stretchy it seemed the best and most secure way. For topstitching the waistband, I used my regular machine and a narrow zig zag stitch. They look great, if I say so myself, and the Bengaline is nice to work with.
Now to fitting issues. My pattern is the size 20. I think it is slightly too big. They feel loose and also sit slightly lower than I am comfortable with. I didn’t add the optional elastic in the waist, because I didn’t have any wide enough. If they fit more closely, I’d be happy to do without the elastic, but as things are, they feel dangerous, especially when I move around a bit! I think I need to make some adjustments to the pattern for my next pair, raise the waist an inch, use the elastic, maybe a flat butt adjustment?
Real life photos of my least flattering physical attribute follow.
I’m so sorry …
Your opinions would be most welcome. (Please keep it polite!)
In the first two photos above, my Tshirt is lifted to where I would say my natural waist lies. The third photo is how things would look in normal wear.
I’ve got some fabric left over to play with – I bought more than needed because I was worried about shrinkage, but if it did shrink, it wasn’t by much.